Technique → Bracelets & Buckles

FOLDING BUCKLES

Folding buckles are closure mechanisms primarily used in wristwatches. They secure the strap around the wrist while allowing easy opening and closing. Renowned for their comfort, safety, and ability to prolong the lifespan of watch straps by minimising wear, folding buckles are widely used in luxury and sports watches.

History

The origin of the folding buckle dates back to the emergence of wristwatches in the 1930s.

A patent for such a clasp was filed in 1930 by a major Geneva-based manufacturer. Other brands quickly adopted this innovation due to its practicality and security, especially for watches with metal bracelets.

Folding buckles became a staple in the watchmaking industry from the 1950s onward, particularly in haute horlogerie and diving watches, where safety and durability were paramount.

Materials

Folding buckles are crafted from durable and robust materials to ensure strength, longevity, and resistance to corrosion. Common materials include:

  • Stainless Steel: Widely used for its scratch resistance and resistance to humidity. Stainless steel is particularly popular in sports and diving watches.
  • Titanium: Lighter than stainless steel, titanium is often used for luxury or high-performance watches. Its durability and non-corrosive properties make it an excellent choice.
  • Gold and Platinum: These precious metals are used in luxury models. Yellow, rose, and white gold, as well as platinum, provide an aesthetic and elegant touch.
  • Ceramic: Although less common, ceramic is sometimes used for its lightweight properties, scratch resistance, and unique aesthetic.

Manufacturing Methods

The production of folding buckles involves several steps, combining mechanical precision and artisanal techniques, particularly for intricate or high-finish models.

  1. Design and Development: Each folding buckle begins with a design phase, focusing on ergonomics, aesthetics, and functionality. This includes selecting materials, shaping the buckle, and ensuring compatibility with the strap.
  2. Machining: After the design is approved, the material is machined with high-precision equipment to create the buckle’s shape. This involves processes such as milling, turning, and polishing.
  3. Component Assembly: A folding buckle comprises several small parts, such as springs, gears, and locks. Each component is carefully assembled to ensure smooth and secure operation.
  4. Finishing: High-quality models undergo finishing work, including polishing, satin brushing, or surface treatments like galvanic coatings or PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition).

    Uses and Applications

    Folding buckles are used in a variety of watch types, including:

    • Diving Watches: Their secure closure and ability to remain fastened underwater make folding buckles a common choice for diving watches.
    • Luxury Watches: High-end watch brands favour folding buckles for their practicality and refined appearance.
    • Sports and Performance Watches: Watches designed for intense physical activities such as running, cycling, or climbing benefit from folding buckles, ensuring the strap stays securely fastened even during abrupt movements.

    Advantages

    Comfort: Folding buckles distribute pressure evenly on the wrist, offering greater comfort than traditional pin buckles.

    • Security: They often feature a locking mechanism that prevents accidental opening, ensuring the strap remains secure.
    • Strap Longevity: Unlike pin buckles, folding buckles do not directly stress the strap during opening and closing, reducing premature wear, particularly for leather straps.
    • Ease of Use: They are easy to operate—simply fold or unfold the clasp to open or close the strap.
    • Aesthetic Appeal: Folding buckles feature sleek, elegant designs, making them a popular choice for high-end watches.

    Disadvantages

    • Complexity and Cost: Folding buckles are more complex to manufacture than pin buckles, increasing production costs and, consequently, the watch’s final price.
    • Weight: Although generally lightweight, certain metal versions can add noticeable weight to the strap, which may be less comfortable for some users.
    • Repairs and Maintenance: If the mechanism becomes damaged, repairs can be intricate and costly. Internal components, such as springs, may wear out over time.
    • Aesthetics and Comfort: While refined, folding buckles can be bulkier than pin buckles, making them less suitable for slimmer or minimalist watch designs.