MATERIALS
Materials are the basis of everything in watchmaking. Many criteria determine the choice of material: the component it is intended for, its price, appearance, as well as its mechanical, physical, chemical, or optical properties. All are taken into consideration when selecting the right material. New alloys, plastics, composites, and ceramics that have emerged in recent decades stimulate horological creativity and push the boundaries of watchmaking. The interest in new materials extends not only to watches per se but also contributes to the technological advancement of the tools and machines that manufacture them. Many standards, conventions, and regulations mentioned in this chapter apply to material usage at both national and international levels.
METALS
Metal is the most commonly used material in a watch. Today, many composite materials can substitute for metal. However, in certain application areas, metals remain irreplaceable. The main metals and alloys used in horology are listed in this section.
SILICON
Silicon possesses unique properties (hardness, elasticity, amagnetism, etc.). The technology for manufacturing silicon components itself opens up new horizons. It employs the same photolithographic method used in the production of integrated circuits. This technology allows for the mass production of very small components with highly complex profiles (frequently used in escapements and balance springs). The process ensures precision and absolute consistency in dimensions throughout the different production cycles.
COMPOSITE MATERIALS
Composite materials are composed of a combination of several elements, whose association enhances their characteristics. The carbon family and high-tech ceramics are undoubtedly the most widely used by the watchmaking industry. They are primarily employed for external components such as cases, bracelets, and dials, and less commonly for movement components. Composite materials can also be found in certain specialised tools.
PLASTICS & POLYMERS
Whether for tooling, casing, or components, polymers have been used sporadically in watchmaking for nearly a century. It was only in 1980 that the precision of plastic injection moulding machines expanded the horological use of plastics.
ORGANIC-BASED MATERIALS
Of plant or animal origin, organic materials find various horological applications. In the watchmaking industry, they are predominantly used in bracelet and dial manufacturing. Organic materials are also commonly used in tools and lubricants.
MINERAL-BASED MATERIALS
Organic materials of plant or animal origin have various applications in watchmaking. In watches, they are mainly used in the manufacturing of bracelets and dials. Organic materials are also frequently employed in tooling and lubricants.
GREASES, OILS AND ADHESIVES
In watchmaking, greases and oils are primarily used for lubrication. However, they are also employed to facilitate and improve the cutting action of a tool or machine, carry out certain heat treatments, protect components against corrosion, or enhance a watch’s water resistance. Adhesives are used very specifically, sometimes even serving as gaskets.
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