GENEVA STRIPES (CÔTES DE GENÈVE)
The Geneva Stripes is a distinctive decorative pattern adorning certain parts of watch movements. Over time, it has become a hallmark of quality craftsmanship, particularly for the decoration of flat surfaces such as plates and bridges.
History and Origin of the Name
The Geneva Stripes derives its name from the city of Geneva, which has been a pivotal centre of watchmaking for centuries. Geneva played a key role in the development of the timepieces, and the motif itself emerged in the early 19th century as a technique to embellish the movements of high-quality watches.
Initially, the Geneva Stripes were used to enhance the appearance of the metal components in movements while providing a subtle textured effect that could mask minor imperfections left by manufacturing processes (such as tool marks or machining traces). Early examples were crafted by hand, but with the industrialisation of watchmaking, production techniques evolved, enabling the pattern to be reproduced with greater precision and efficiency.
Surfaces Decorated with Geneva Stripes
The Geneva Stripes is typically applied to visible surfaces of watch movements. While decorating the internal components of a watch has aesthetic value, it also serves as a testament to the quality of the movement’s assembly and finishing. The primary surfaces where Geneva Stripes are applied include:
- Bridges
- Plates
- Dials: Though less common than on bridges and plates, Geneva Stripes can occasionally be found on watch dials.
- Oscillating Weights
Methods for Creating Geneva Stripes
The Geneva Stripes pattern can be created using various methods depending on the available tools and the desired level of finish. The principle involves applying pressure to the surface to be decorated using a circular abrasive of a chosen diameter, which determines the curve radius of the decorative lines. The abrasive rotates on its axis at a controlled speed, affecting the final appearance of the pattern while moving linearly across the component’s surface. The result is overlapping parallel or concentric lines. The spacing between the lines defines the width of the pattern. Depending on the desired quality, different types and grades of abrasives may be used, such as:
- Abrasive Papers
- Lapping Pastes
- Diamond Tools
Balancing artisanal techniques and industrial production, Geneva Stripes can be created using:
- A basic lathe
- A dedicated machine (manual or automated)
- Direct machining on CNC equipment during the component’s manufacturing process
The versatility of these methods ensures that the Geneva Stripes remain a prized decorative feature, combining tradition and modern precision.