Technique → Bracelets & Buckles

METAL BRACELETS

Metal bracelets, whether sporty or elegant, are prized for their robustness, durability, and refined aesthetic. Their design requires technical expertise, meticulous precision, and a deep understanding of materials.

Materials 

Metal bracelets are crafted from a variety of metals, each offering distinct characteristics in terms of strength, flexibility, appearance, and cost. The primary materials include:

  • Stainless Steel: The most commonly used material due to its corrosion resistance, durability, and relatively moderate cost. Stainless steel is available in several alloys, with 316L and 904L being the most popular. 316L is especially valued for its resistance to harsh environmental conditions (humidity, salt, etc.), while 904L offers superior resistance to oxidation and scratches, often featured in high-end watches.
  • Titanium: Lightweight, strong, and hypoallergenic, titanium is a premium alternative to stainless steel. Its robustness and non-corrosive nature make it an excellent choice, though it is harder to work with due to its hardness.
  • Gold: Gold (18-carat) is often alloyed with metals such as copper or palladium to enhance its properties. Used in luxury bracelets, gold offers a unique lustre but is softer than stainless steel, making it less resistant to scratches.
  • Platinum: Platinum is renowned for its brilliant white hue and is used in crafting high-value bracelets. It is more challenging to machine than gold but provides an excellent base for stone setting.

Manufacturing Process

The production of metal watch straps involves several complex steps requiring high-level technical skills. These steps include:

  • Cutting and Shaping: After selecting the appropriate metal, the bracelet pieces are cut and shaped to the desired dimensions and curves. This can be done through stamping or CNC machining, depending on the type of metal and the bracelet’s design. Casting is sometimes used for precious metals in high-jewellery watch bracelets.
  • Assembly of Links: The bracelet consists of individual links connected by fixed or removable pins or screws. Each link is crafted with extreme precision to ensure smooth articulation and optimal strength. Some metal bracelets are created by weaving metallic threads (e.g., Milanese or Polish mesh), offering flexibility and elegance but limiting length adjustments.
  • Finishing: Once assembled, the links undergo various finishing processes, such as polishing, satin brushing, engraving, or gem setting, to achieve the final aesthetic.

Adjusting Metal Bracelet Length

Metal bracelets often require length adjustments to fit the user’s wrist perfectly. This can be done in several ways:

  • Removable Links: The most common method involves adding or removing links by detaching the metal pins connecting them.
  • Micro-Adjustments: Some high-end metal straps feature integrated micro-adjustment systems in the clasp, allowing fine-tuning of the length without removing links.

Setting and Engraving Options

Metal straps offer extensive opportunities for customisation through gem setting and engraving:

  • Gem Setting: Metal bracelets can be adorned with stones such as diamonds, sapphires, or rubies, commonly featured in luxury models. Techniques like prong or pavé setting secure the stones while enhancing their brilliance and colour.
  • Engraving: Engraving can be applied for decorative or functional purposes, such as adding logos, inscriptions, or decorative patterns. It can be done manually using precision tools or with modern techniques like laser or chemical engraving.

Finishing

The finish of a metal strap plays a crucial role in its appearance and durability. Several types of finishes are available to suit various styles:

  • Mirror Polishing: This finish gives the bracelet an intense and smooth shine, achieved through meticulous polishing with fine abrasives.
  • Satin Brushing: Matte brush strokes are often combined with polished surfaces to enhance brightness and contrast.
  • PVD Coating: Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) or Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coatings add a layer of colour and improve scratch resistance. These coatings can create finishes in black, gold, or a wide range of colours.
  • Brushed and Polished Combination: Many watches feature a combination of brushed and polished areas, creating subtle and elegant contrasts that highlight the bracelet’s design.