LACQUERED DIALS

The creation of a lacquered dial begins with its base, typically made from brass. The dial plate can be stamped or machined. Stamping allows for the inclusion of dial reliefs (sunken counters, flanges, indices, or numerals) and/or decorative patterns (geometric, figurative, etc.).

Milling provides similar possibilities, with operations generally completed in a single cycle. The dial feet are then soldered, a process that can be performed manually, with a machine for precise positioning and soldering, or fully automated in industrial-scale production.

The base of the dial is then prepared with its desired finish. Techniques such as sandblasting, microblasting, satin-finish, circular graining, sunray finish, polishing, beveling, engraving, or Geneva stripes may be applied individually or in combination, executed artisanally or industrially.

Before the dial is lacquered, it is typically subjected to galvanic treatments (rhodium or gold plating) or physical vapour deposition (PVD, DLC, etc.) to provide a uniform background colour and prevent oxidation. Multiple layers of lacquer are then applied successively. This lacquer can be opaque, translucent, or clear. In the case of clear lacquer, the underlying substrate (galvanic finish, PVD, DLC, etc.) determines the dial’s colour. After applying the desired number of layers, the lacquer is polished to achieve a flat surface and optimal finish. This lacquering process imparts a sense of depth to the dial. For engraved or guilloché dials, the colours shimmer elegantly depending on the light and the watch’s movements.

The holes and cut-outs on the dial are generally made after the lacquering process. While this makes drilling and machining more delicate, it ensures the highest quality surface for the dial. The lacquer is applied either manually or using automated machines. For optimal cleanliness, painting is typically done in booths within controlled atmosphere zones (dry, filtered air, slight overpressure, etc.). Finally, pad-printing and any appliques (numerals, indices, brand logos, etc.) are affixed to the dial.