Technique → Bracelets & Buckles

LEATHER STRAPS

Leather has been used to craft watch straps since the advent of wristwatches. Over the years, an immense variety of animal hides, colours, and treatments have been employed, reflecting changing eras and trends.

Types of Leather:

It is nearly impossible to compile an exhaustive list of the types of leather used in watchmaking. Below is a selection:

  • Calf
  • Lamb
  • Alligator/Crocodile
  • Lizard
  • Snake
  • Ostrich
  • Shark
  • Stingray

Finishes:

Leathers can undergo various treatments, such as natural or chemical tanning, which influence their durability, appearance, and cost.

The finish can be matte or glossy, and embossing (hot stamping) can be used to create decorative patterns on the surface.

Manufacturing:

The manufacturing process begins with cutting the leather, followed by assembling the various components. Stitching, often done by hand, ensures the durability of the strap.

Three major components make up the strap:

  • The core provides the internal structure of the strap, giving it strength and flexibility and shaping its profile.
  • The outer leather covers the exterior of the strap, giving it its appearance and colour.
  • The lining is the inner part of the strap that comes into contact with the wrist.

The strap’s core is covered on one side by the outer leather and on the other by the lining. The edges of the strap can be machine-stitched or hand-stitched. In some cases, the outer leather and lining are simply glued to the core.

The edge of the strap can be either raw-cut, in which case a resin is often applied to the edge for protection, or folded over. In the latter case, the outer leather is folded over the edges and tucked underneath the core, covering and protecting the strap’s sides.

Technical Characteristics:

  • Dimensions: Straps come in a variety of widths to fit different watch models. They may feature special cuts or shapes to match the profile of the watch case or clasp.
  • Clasps: Clasps can be made of stainless steel, gold, or other materials (metals, ceramics, composites, plastics, etc.) and come in various designs (pin buckles, deployant clasps, etc.).
  • Water Resistance: While leather is not naturally water-resistant, certain treatments can improve its resistance to moisture and sweat. Synthetic linings may enhance sweat resistance.
  • Inserts: In some cases, inserts are integrated into the strap’s core. These may be made of metal, plastic, or composites, allowing the strap to integrate seamlessly with the case or improve interchangeability.

Advantages and Disadvantages:

Leather straps are valued for their comfort and elegance. However, they remain vulnerable to moisture, sweat, scratches, and UV exposure.

Regulations and Restrictions:

The leather used in watch straps is subject to numerous regional, national, and international regulations and restrictions, such as the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES).

Awareness of animal welfare and environmental issues has increasingly led to the production of straps made from synthetic or plant-based materials.