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1. Definition
Beveling / Angling is a watchmaking decoration operation, either manual or mechanical. It consists of breaking the sharp edge connecting two surfaces of a component. This edge is replaced by a flat Chamfer or a convex rounded profile. Beveling / Angling primarily serves an aesthetic purpose.
More rarely, it may serve a technical function, such as removing a sharp edge. The angle’s slope varies according to the desired aesthetic and the component’s constraints. It generally remains balanced, at around 45° for two surfaces forming a right angle.
2. Aesthetic function
A Polished angle catches the light and reflects it in fine prisms. This play of light contrasts with the satin or matte surfaces it connects. Beveling / Angling thus highlights the contours of a component and refines its silhouette. Bridges, plates, springs, levers and gear trains are suited to this Decoration. One condition prevails: their mechanical function must not be affected.
3. Craft method
The artisanal method relies entirely on the gesture of the Horologist (watchmaker). The angle is first roughed out with a File. The Horologist (watchmaker) then evens out the surface using cabrons of different grits (from coarsest to finest). Final Polishing is carried out using a peg carved from hard Wood (generally Boxwood), charged with diamond paste. Finally, the final shine is generally obtained using a finer diamantine applied to a soft Wood (elder pith). Each pass is checked by eye and with a loupe. This method requires long training and great manual sensitivity. It remains favored for high-end pieces and artisanal watchmaking.
4. Artisanal Beveling / Angling (video)
5. Semi-industrial method
Machines sometimes assist the Horologist (watchmaker) without entirely replacing their gesture. Wheels or abrasive discs mounted on a hand tool. The Horologist (watchmaker) retains control over the pressure and inclination applied. Final Polishing generally remains manual to ensure the quality of the reflection. This method combines Time savings with a relative aesthetic requirement.
6. Industrial method
In series production, beveling / angling is often integrated into machining on a numerically controlled center. A diamond tool chamfers the edge during the same cycle as the milling of the component. This method guarantees perfect consistency between parts of the same series. However, the quality of the polish obtained generally remains inferior to that of manual beveling / angling. High-end models therefore often resort to complementary manual finishing, carried out after machining.
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