Components › Bracelet / Strap & clasps

LEATHER BRACELET / STRAPS

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1. General description

Leather has been used to make bracelet / straps ever since watches were worn on the wrist. Depending on the era and fashions, an immense variety of animal skins, shades, and treatments has been used.

2. Types of leather

It is virtually impossible to establish an exhaustive list of the types of leather used in watchmaking. This is a selection:

• calfskin
• lambskin
• alligator/crocodile
• lizard
• snake
• ostrich
• shark
• Shagreen

3. Finishes

Leathers can be treated using various processes, such as natural or chemical tanning, which influence their durability, their appearance and their cost.

The finish can be matte or glossy, and embossing (heat stamping) can decoratively structure its surface.

4. Manufacturing

The manufacturing process begins with cutting the hide, followed by the Assembly of the various pieces. The stitching, often done by hand, ensures the strength of the Bracelet / Strap.

Three major elements make up the Bracelet / Strap:

• The core of the Bracelet / Strap forms the internal structure of the whole. It gives the Bracelet / Strap its shape and flexibility and can define its relief.
• The hide covers the outside of the Bracelet / Strap and gives it its look and color.
• The lining is the inner part of the Bracelet / Strap in contact with the wrist.

The core of the Bracelet / Strap is covered on one side by the hide and on the other by the lining.The edge of the bracelet/strap can be machine-stitched or hand-stitched. In other cases, the skin and lining will simply be glued to the core. Finally, the edge of the bracelet/strap can be cut straight, in which case a resin will often be applied to the edge to protect it, or it can be folded over. With a folded-edge bracelet/strap, the skin is folded over the sides and tucked under the core of the bracelet/strap. The skin covers and protects the sides of the bracelet/strap.

5. Characteristics

• Dimensions: Bracelets / Straps are available in a variety of widths to fit different watch models. They may feature special cuts or shapes to fit the profile of the case or the buckle.
• Buckles: Buckles can be made of stainless steel, gold or other materials (metals, composites, plastics, etc.). They can have different designs (pin buckle, deployant clasp, etc.).
• Water resistance: Although leather is not inherently water resistant, certain treatments can improve its resistance to moisture and perspiration. Synthetic linings can improve their resistance to perspiration.
• Inserts: In some cases, inserts can be integrated into the core of the bracelet / strap. Metallic, plastic, or composite, they can allow the bracelet / strap to be integrated with the case or facilitate its interchangeability.

6. Advantages and disadvantages

Leather bracelets/straps are appreciated for their comfort and their elegance. However, they remain vulnerable to humidity, perspiration, scratches and UV rays.

7. Regulations and restrictions

The leathers of watch bracelets/straps are subject to numerous regional, national and international regulations and restrictions, such as the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). Sensitivity to animal welfare and the environment today favors the production of bracelets/straps made from synthetic or plant-based materials.