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THE HORNS (LUGS)

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1. General description

The horns (lugs) are the elements used to attach the Bracelet / Strap to the case. In the vast majority of cases, they are integral with the case middle and made from the same material. They are suitable for attaching straps of all materials (leather, metal, synthetic, etc.). However, alternative methods exist for attaching the strap to the case.

Bracelet / Straps made of precious metals are sometimes welded to the case middle, without an intermediate element. Finally, style occasionally calls for a single central attachment instead of the two peripheral horns (lugs).

More anecdotally, some constructions feature horns (lugs) fixed to the case back or machined from the same block of material as it.

2. History

It took more than a century for the wristwatch to establish itself and, finally, replace the pocket watch at the dawn of the 20th century. Initially, the wristwatch was mainly intended for women. Horologists (watchmakers) often simply welded “wire” lugs to a small pocket watch in order to attach a strap. The first horns (lugs) appeared at the beginning of the 20th century.

The major advantage of this system is the easy interchangeability of the Bracelet / Strap. In many cases, the design of the Horn (lug) thus provides valuable clues about the Period of manufacture of the watch.

3. Artisanal manufacturing of horns

Today, strictly artisanal production of cases has become anecdotal. Depending on the design and complexity of the Horn (lug), the artisan uses, with this method, a Milling machine which is generally sufficient to fully shape the Horn (lug). The horns will then be welded using a template or, sometimes, screwed to the Case middle. The Decoration (Satin finish, Polishing, etc.) of the horns is generally carried out before they are fixed to the Case middle. However, depending on the design and construction of the Case, it may be carried out after the horns have been assembled to the Case middle.

4. Semi-industrial manufacturing of horns

The method we describe here can also be applied on an industrial scale. Depending on the design of the Case, its construction and the Materials used, it may be preferred over the industrial method.

The production of the Horns (lugs) and the Case middle as a single piece by machining is considered semi-industrial. This method minimizes production costs, particularly those related to welding the Horns (lugs) to the Case middle. The combined Horns (lugs) and Case middle assembly is more homogeneous and stronger than when they are attached separately. This method may, however, leave inelegant Milling radii at the junction between the Case middle band and the Horns (lugs).

5. Industrial production of Horns (lugs)

It consists of manufacturing the Horns (lugs) and the Case middle as a single piece by Stamping. Depending on the design of the Case, its construction and the Materials employed, it may also be considered semi-artisanal depending on production volumes. The quality achieved by this method is optimal (no milling radius); the case middle and the horns (lugs) are integral and therefore solid. Manufacturing costs decrease as production volume increases. Due to the high (but one-time) tooling costs, this method requires minimum production volumes to be profitable and does not allow the use of different materials for the horns (lugs) and the case middle.

6. High-tech production of horns (lugs)

As is often the case in watchmaking, new manufacturing technologies are closely linked to the emergence of new materials. Sapphire and composites have become widely established in watch external parts (case, dial, hands) and have required new manufacturing methods. Injection molding, machining, tools, and polishing are thus constantly evolving to shape these new materials while meeting the technical and aesthetic criteria of a watch case.