The Pin buckle / Tang buckle is the oldest and most widespread type of watch strap closure. It works on the same principle as a classic belt: a metal pin (the tang) passes through one of the holes in the Bracelet / Strap and fits into the buckle frame, holding everything closed through friction and gravity. Simple, lightweight, and reliable, it adapts to any type of strap — Leather, rubber, textile — and is available in all Materials: Steel Inoxidisable (stainless), Gold, Titanium, Ceramics. Its drawbacks lie in the progressive wear of the bracelet’s holes and in the fact that it does not offer infinite Regulation / Adjustment. The Pin buckle / Tang buckle coexists today with the Deployment buckle, better suited to Metal bracelet.
DEPLOYMENT BUCKLES
- General Description
- History
- Advantages & Disadvantages
- Artisanal Method
- Semi-artisanal Method
- Industrial Method
- High-Tech Method
The Deployment buckle is a device that can be adapted to any type of flexible Bracelet / Strap, including those initially designed for a Pin buckle. It allows a size to be set and then kept in memory.
Arriving toward the end of the 20th century, Deployment buckles have sometimes replaced Pin buckles. They made their way particularly onto watches with a closed Case back and somewhat less onto watches with an open Case back, as they can in a certain way obstruct the view of the Movement.
Advantages: It allows the bracelet length to be indexed only once, thus reducing wear on the bracelet at the clasp.
Disadvantages: When the watch has a transparent case back, a deployment buckle can limit the visibility of the movement.
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