CLAW

Definition

The claw is a small pointed metal hook that, in jewelry and watchmaking, is used to hold a stone on a setting. Several claws, arranged around the stone, are folded over it to hold it firmly in place without resorting to a closed setting.

Role in setting

Claw setting is one of the most classic and widely used types of setting (stone/jewel setting). The number of claws generally varies from four to six depending on the shape, size, and fragility of the stone to be set: round or square stones lend themselves well to an even number of symmetrically arranged claws, while more complex cuts may require more for optimal hold.

Implementation

The claws are first machined or filed from the setting, then the stone is positioned in its housing. The setter then folds each claw over the stone using a suitable tool, applying gradual and evenly distributed pressure so as not to crack the stone or shift it. The claws are finally filed, ground, then polished to sit flush with the stone and conceal the shaping marks.

Advantages and limitations

Claw setting leaves a large part of the stone visible, promoting the passage of light and the brilliance of the gem, particularly for diamonds. On the other hand, exposed claws remain more vulnerable to impacts than closed or rail setting techniques: a worn, bent, or broken claw can result in the loss of the stone, which requires regular checking of their integrity.