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METAL BRACELET / STRAPS

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1. General description

Whether sporty or elegant, metal bracelets/straps are used for many purposes. Their design requires technical expertise, meticulous precision and a thorough understanding of materials. This type of bracelet/strap is generally valued for its robustness, durability and elegance.

2. Materials

Metal bracelets in watchmaking are made from various metals, each offering distinct characteristics in terms of strength, flexibility, aesthetics, and cost. The main metals used include:

• Inoxidisable (stainless) Steel: the most commonly used Material, due to its resistance to corrosion, its durability, and its relatively moderate cost. Inoxidisable (stainless) Steel is available in several alloys, the most popular of which are grades 316L and 904L. 316L, in particular, is highly prized for its ability to withstand harsh environmental conditions (moisture, salt, etc.), while 904L is more resistant to oxidation and scratches, and is often used for high-end watches.
• Titanium: lightweight, strong, and hypoallergenic, it is an alternative to Inoxidisable (stainless) Steel. It is particularly appreciated for its great robustness while remaining lighter. However, it can be more difficult to work with due to its Hardness.
• Gold: 18-carat Gold, often alloyed with other metals such as Copper or palladium to reinforce its properties, is used in high-end Metal bracelets. Gold has a unique shine, but it is softer than stainless steel, which can make it less resistant to scratches.
• Main plate : it has a bright white color and allows for shaping high-value bracelets. It is more difficult to machine than Gold, but offers excellent support for Setting (stone/jewel setting).

3. Manufacturing

The manufacturing of Metal bracelets involves several complex steps that require high-level technical skills. These steps include:

• Cutting and shaping: After selecting the appropriate Metal, the bracelet parts are cut, then shaped to the desired dimensions and curves. This can be done by Stamping or by CNC machining (computer numerical control), depending on the type of metal and the design of the bracelet. Injection molding (casting) is sometimes used for precious metal bracelets in fine jewelry watches.
• The Assembly of links: The bracelet is made up of individual links connected to each other by pins or screws, fixed or removable. Each link is manufactured with extreme precision to ensure perfect articulation and optimal strength. Each bracelet has a number of links and rows specific to its design. Some metal bracelets are made by weaving metal threads (Milanese mesh, Polish mesh, etc.). These are supple and elegant, but often involve restrictions regarding their length adjustment.
• The finishes: Once the links are assembled, they undergo various finishes (polishing, satin finish, engraving, setting) to give them their final aesthetic.

4. Length adjustment

Metal bracelet often require length adjustment to fit perfectly on the user’s wrist. This can be achieved in several ways:

• Removable links: The most common method involves adding or removing links, which increases or reduces the length of the Bracelet / Strap. This operation consists of removing the metal pins connecting the links.
• Micro-adjustments: Some Metal bracelet, particularly those of high-end watches, offer the possibility of making very fine adjustments thanks to a micro-adjustment system, usually built into the Clasp, which allows the length to be modified without having to remove any links.

5. Setting (stone/jewel setting) and Engraving

Metal bracelet offer a wide range of customization options, particularly through Setting (stone/jewel setting) and Engraving.

• Setting (stone/jewel setting): Metal bracelets can be adorned with stones, such as diamonds, sapphires or rubies, often on luxury models. These stones are fixed onto the metal using various setting techniques, such as claw setting or pavé setting. Setting enhances the brilliance and colour of the stones while ensuring their security.
• Engraving: Metal bracelets can also be engraved, either for aesthetic reasons or for functional reasons (for example, adding logos, inscriptions or decorative patterns). Engraving can be done by hand, using a precision tool, or with modern techniques such as laser or chemical engraving.

6. Finishes

The finishes of a metal bracelet play an essential role in its appearance and durability. There are several types of finishes that can be applied depending on the desired style:

• Mirror polishing: This finish gives the bracelet an intense shine and a smooth appearance. It is achieved through meticulous polishing using fine abrasive materials.
• Satin finish: The matte lines of the satin finish are generally combined with polished surfaces to enhance their shine and contrast
• PVD: A PVD or DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating can be applied to add a colored layer and improve scratch resistance. This treatment can offer various finishes, such as black tones, gold tones, or a wide range of colors.
• Satin finish with polished finish: Most watches combine brushed areas and polished areas, creating a subtle and elegant contrast. This allows for interesting visual effects and highlights the shapes of the bracelet.