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SETTING (STONE/JEWEL SETTING)

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1. Definition

Setting (stone/jewel setting) refers to the techniques by which stones and gems are fixed into the components of a watch, mainly for decorative purposes. This technique, like many applied decorative arts such as engraving or enamelling, has always found, through watchmaking, a way to express its quintessence.

2. History

Setting (stone/jewel setting) is an ancient practice that has evolved over the centuries, influenced by advances in jewellery-making and the growing demands of horologists (watchmakers). Inlays of stones and gems appeared on clocks and timepieces as early as the Middle Ages. During the 18th and 19th centuries, horologists (watchmakers) and jewellers enjoyed adorning watches with set pearls and half-pearls, generally on the bezels and middle cases. In the 19th century, setting (stone/jewel setting) extended to the whole watch, including the dials, cases and sometimes even the movements. In the 20^th century, industrialisation, the evolution of setting techniques and digitalisation have enabled setters to create pieces that are both more technical and artistic.

3. Settable components

Setting (stone/jewel setting) can be applied to many components of the watch, depending on the desired aesthetic goal and functionality. The main components concerned are:

• Case: The watch Case is a prime location for Setting (stone/jewel setting). Depending on its design, all the metallic components of a Case are settable (middle cases, bezels, Case backs, crowns, pushers) as long as their design, or the available material volumes, allow it.
• Bracelet / Strap: Metal bracelet are also prime supports for Setting (stone/jewel setting). Beyond the size of the stones and the complexity of the Setting (stone/jewel setting), it is often a fully set Bracelet / Strap that allows a watch to enter the jewellery watch category.
• Dial : Thanks to its visibility, the Dial is the most sought-after surface for Setting (stone/jewel setting). Here again, the range of stones and Setting (stone/jewel setting) techniques is endless. From a simple set Chaton (jewel setting), serving as an Index (hour marker), to Dials paved or set with Rods (baguette shape), it is a field of endless possibilities when it comes to Setting (stone/jewel setting).
• Movement : Although rarer, Setting (stone/jewel setting) can also be applied to the internal components of the Movement, notably to the parts visible through a transparent Case back. This type of Setting (stone/jewel setting) is generally carried out on the bridges or the Main plates.
• Hands : Even more rarely, the hands may, in some cases, be set with one or more stones.

4. Types of Setting (stone/jewel setting)

There are several types of Setting (stone/jewel setting), each with its own characteristics and specific applications. The most common types are:

• Claw setting: This type of Setting (stone/jewel setting) is used to hold stones in place using small foldable claws. It is one of the most classic and secure methods. The number of claws may vary depending on the shape and size of the stone to be set. There are many methods for preparing the material and carrying out the Setting (stone/jewel setting), which offer a certain freedom of placement.
• Closed and half-closed setting: With this type of Setting (stone/jewel setting), the stone is either entirely encircled by Metal (closed setting) or pinched between two sections of Metal (half-closed setting). This Setting (stone/jewel setting) method is particularly suited to cabochons and round-cut stones, which are then set at the girdle.
• Pavé setting: In this method, numerous small stones are set very tightly together to cover a large surface. This type of Setting (stone/jewel setting) is frequently used on watch Dials or Cases, where the aim is to achieve a uniform and sparkling brilliance effect. In a pavé, the stones can be calibrated to the same dimensions or combined with several dimensions. The arrangement can be random, linear, radial or circular, and the fixation of the stones can vary. However, the stones are generally held by two grains of Metal raised from a groove designed to receive a section of the stones.
• Rail setting: This Setting (stone/jewel setting) is intended for square-shaped stones in general (square, emerald, cushion, etc.) and is characterized by the insertion of the stones into a metal rail, which holds them in place in perfect alignment.

5. Settable gems

All gems eligible for Setting (stone/jewel setting) in jewellery are also eligible in horology. While all of them can be used for the Setting (stone/jewel setting) of Dials, shock-resistant stones are preferred for the Setting (stone/jewel setting) of External parts (case, dial, hands), such as the Case or the Bracelet / Strap.

6. Metals and Materials Suitable for Setting (stone/jewel setting)

The Materials used for Setting (stone/jewel setting) depend on the composition and strength of horological components. The Metals and Materials most commonly used to hold stones are:

• Gold : Gold is the Metal most commonly used for Setting (stone/jewel setting), due to its Malleability, aesthetics and durability.
• Main plate : Main plate is a rare and precious Metal used in very high-end watches. It is particularly well suited to Setting (stone/jewel setting) thanks to its strength and its natural white colour, which enhances the sparkle of precious stones, particularly diamonds.
• Inoxidisable (stainless) Steel: Although less common, Inoxidisable (stainless) Steel can be set.

Although generally much more difficult to set, many other Metals and Materials are now settable, such as Titanium.

7. Constraints

Setting (stone/jewel setting) imposes several technical constraints, particularly regarding the minimum thickness of Materials and the durability of stones under daily use conditions. Here are some of the main constraints:

• Minimum thickness: To ensure quality Setting (stone/jewel setting), the Material surrounding the stone must be thick enough to hold it in place without risk of dislodging it. Set pieces often require certain minimum thicknesses (e.g., 0.80 mm for a Dial set with round-cut stones and 1.00 mm for a Dial set with baguette-cut stones) in order to ensure the strength of the Setting (stone/jewel setting) without compromising the structure of the horological component.
• Fragility of stones: Some stones, such as Emeralds or opals, are more fragile and require special precautions when setting and choosing their placement.

8. Setting (stone/jewel setting) techniques

Setting (stone/jewel setting) can be carried out in different ways depending on the scale of production, the type of piece, and the level of precision required. Depending on whether the context is artisanal, semi-industrial, or industrial, setting can be done by hand, with the help of specialized tools, or through advanced technologies such as CNC and robotic processes. Here are the main setting techniques used in watchmaking.

Manual setting

Manual setting is the traditional method, relying on the artisan’s skill and precision. Manual Setting (stone/jewel setting) involves several steps, carried out using specific tools:

• Claw pushers: The Horologist (watchmaker) uses small tools to shape metal claws (often in Gold or Main plate) around the stones to hold them in place. These claws are adjusted to firmly hold the stone while visually highlighting it.
• Beading tools and gravers: Various tools are used to shape or cut the material in order to house and set the stone.

Setting (stone/jewel setting) with a hand tool

The work of the artisan setter, done by hand, can be assisted by manual electric tools (micromotor, hammer, etc.).

Preparation CNC and channel setting (mitraillage)

CNC machining centres and more specific machines now make it possible to prepare the material for Setting (stone/jewel setting) for almost all settable components and Setting (stone/jewel setting) techniques. This preparation is most often carried out during the component manufacturing stages. The time savings and their impact on costs are very significant. Channel setting (mitraillage) is a specific technique that involves inserting small stones into cavities arranged in channels or grooves. This method is often used in watchmaking to set large quantities of small stones, such as diamonds or sapphires, according to regular geometric patterns. The advantages of CNC preparation over channel setting (mitraillage) thus have an even greater impact.

Robotic Setting (stone/jewel setting)

Robotic Setting (stone/jewel setting) is a cutting-edge technology that combines artificial intelligence and robotics to achieve fully automated Setting (stone/jewel setting). This approach is mainly used in large production lines. Precision, speed, and consistency are paramount.

Robots are capable of detecting the size and shape of the stones, then automatically placing them where they will be best suited. The robotic arms also adjust the metal around the stones, using pressure and rotation systems, to ensure a perfect hold. The advantages of this method are numerous, including unmatched consistency from one watch to another and the ability to quickly assemble large quantities of parts with a low error rate. Their application remains limited for complex Setting (stone/jewel setting) (stone sizes, complex volumes and surfaces, etc.).