DECORATION AND FINISHES
Historically, watchmakers began by decorating the Main plate then the Bridge of their Movement in order to lessen the marks left by the manufacturing of these components. It was during the 18th and 19th centuries that the decoration of movements truly came into its own with the rise of the decorative arts (Engraving, Enamelling, Setting (stone/jewel setting), etc.).
“Finishing” will more commonly be used when referring to the technical completion of a component (e.g. pivot burnishing, the block Polished finish of an escapement wheel plate, etc.). Although often purely decorative in purpose, Decoration and finishing improve, in many cases, the performance and durability of Movements.
BEVELING / ANGLING
Beveling / Angling is a manual or mechanical operation that consists of creating a Chamfer on the sharp edge connecting two surfaces of a component. Beveling / Angling refines the silhouette of the component and elegantly contrasts with the matte surfaces of the Movement when Polished.
JAMMING (CALENDAR)
Jamming (calendar) is a preparatory operation carried out alongside other Decoration or even manufacturing operations. Its purpose is to soften the machining or filing marks left by previous operations. For example, by filing the surface of a part, the movements of the Filewill leave marks in the material oriented along the axis of filing. Jamming (calendar) consists of lightly filing the surface while continuously changing axis. The filing marks will thus be less noticeable and the surface smoother. This will save time for subsequent operations (Satin finish, Polishing, etc.).
CIRCLING
Like the satin finish and sunburst finish, circling creates fine lines by abrasion on the surface of the components. In the case of circling, these lines are circular and concentric. Circling is therefore mainly used to decorate round-shaped components (such as circling the flat face of a screw head).
GENEVA STRIPESE
Geneva stripes are designed to decorate the upper, flat surfaces of certain components (mainly bridges, main plates, oscillating weights and, sometimes, dials). Geneva stripes feature parallel or concentric “waves” (in the latter case, they are referred to as circular Geneva stripes). Whether crafted by hand or produced industrially, no Geneva stripes technique can decorate the bottom of a recess.
ENAMELLING
Enamelling is very often subject to controversy and inaccuracies. While enamelling is divided into different sub-techniques, enamel is above all a material: a specific blend of silica, red lead, potash and soda, among others. The addition of specific oxides makes it possible to obtain very varied and well-defined colours. The powder thus obtained is mixed with a binder. Once liquid, the enamel can be applied with a brush. The enamel will take on its colour, its transparency and above all its hardness after firing at high temperature, during which the material vitrifies.
ENGRAVING
In watchmaking, engraving can serve an indicative or purely decorative purpose. The manufacturer’s mark, the number of a calibre or the number of jewels it contains are among the information systematically engraved on a movement today. More rarely, engraving (generally by hand) is intended to be purely ornamental. A large number of techniques exist (hand engraving, mechanical, chemical, laser or even photolithographic), offering watchmakers a wide range of finishes (qualities) and costs.
GUILLOCHÉ (ENGINE-TURNING)
It is a type of Engraving. It consists of engraving decorative patterns made up of intertwined lines. Guilloché (engine-turning) is done by hand, on a Rose engine (guilloché lathe) (circular patterns), on a straight line (linear patterns) or on a tapestry lathe (reproduction of a pattern)
CIRCULAR GRAINING
Whether manual or mechanical, circular graining consists of decorating a surface with disks arranged in overlapping concentric circular lines. This method is particularly useful for decorating recessed surfaces (recesses). Traditionally, the recesses made in the Main plate and the Bridges are circular grained (decorated with circular graining).
POLISHING
Polishing involves smoothing a surface and making it as smooth and shiny as possible. To achieve this, the surface is smoothed through the successive use of increasingly fine (soft) abrasives. In addition to its decorative qualities, polishing can, technically, help reduce friction or improve corrosion resistance.
SANDBLASTING AND SHOT BLASTING (MICRO BEAD BLASTING)
Sandblasting and shot blasting (micro bead blasting) involve projecting, respectively, sand or synthetic or glass spherical beads, under compressed air pressure, through a nozzle.
In watchmaking, sandblasting and shot blasting (micro bead blasting) are mainly used for decorative purposes and are applied both to components of the Movement (Bridges, Main plates) as well as to External parts (case, dial, hands) components (Dials, cases).
SATIN FINISH (drawing/stretching of lines/flanks)
Satin finish is achieved through abrasion. It can be applied to flat surfaces as well as to convex or concave surfaces. The lines obtained by Satin finish are linear and parallel. Satin finish is frequently used to decorate the vertical walls of a component (i.e. its outline). This is commonly referred to as “stretching the flanks”.
SETTING (STONE/JEWEL SETTING)
Setting (stone/jewel setting) is the placement of stones held in place with claws or metal edges, which are folded over the stones.
SUNBURST FINISH
Like satin finish, sunburst finish creates lines through abrasion on the surface of the component to which it is applied. In this case, the lines obtained are no longer parallel, but radial. This decoration is perfectly suited to circular components or circular surfaces of components (e.g. a ratchet wheel or a crown wheel). Highly appreciated for its iridescent effects, sunburst finish is also often used to decorate the surface of a dial.
SKELETONIZING AND OPENWORKING
These two techniques consist of creating openings in the solid surfaces of components. We speak of openworking when these openings are partial on the surface or only open onto the lower level of components (an openworked Dial, an Bridge openworked). Openworking is generally used to highlight specific parts of the Movement. Skeletonizing consists of lightening and refining the movement’s structure as much as possible in order to achieve maximum “transparency”. A movement is referred to as skeletonized when light can pass through it (as much as possible) from one side to the other.
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